THE FIREPLACES OF MY MEMORY

A glass of fresh gazpacho, a large dish of snails or fried anchovies and a watermelon "tajá" are undoubtedly the most typical menu in the summer in the summer.

Now that the unavoidable summer cannibals of Andalusia arrive, which is gradually coming "la caló", we will try to cool our palates with the most delicious Andalusian gazpacho.

Talk about gazpacho, colloquially it is synonymous of mixture, rebujina, confusion, bulla, batiburrillo, jumble. Inside the clay dornillo of the gazpacho is the same thing.

The gazpachos, were already mentioned in romances of the XII century and by Cervantes, although they were very different from the red versions that invented the imported tomato after the discovery of the American continent. its birth goes back much further; particularly in the Roman era, when the advanced legions in Hispania, especially in the south, received refreshments of water, vinegar and salt to recover after exercise, battles and skirmishes of conquest and reconquest. Andalusian gazpacho is usually defined by some culinary authors as a mixture between soup and salad.

It is a dish that is elaborated more in the provinces of western Andalusia, than in the east, where white gazpachos (without tomato) are more typical. In addition to the red and white gazpachos there are other, called green, that are typical of Sierra Morena and Sierra de Huelva. But the truth is that with the Andalusian gazpacho happens as with the Valencian paella; in Andalusia there are so many gazpachos as families, villages and cooks: thousands of different combinations depending on the place, the time, the economy and above all the personal taste or the mania of each one.

The primitive gazpacho (mixture of crumbled bread, olive oil and vinegar) has been feeding Andalusian peasants for centuries.

Until relatively recent times, it was the main food base of rural workers in the country, which they took a boat with oil, vinegar and salt and, apart, the bread, the garlic, the tomato and the pepper; everything in the spore, and the dornillo of clay, the pestle and the wooden spoon and elaborated it in the same block of the numerous cortijos that surround the municipal term of Villamanrique de la Condesa. With the evolution of the times, the gazpacho has become a fine purée, with more tomato than bread, but formerly it was the other way around, taking advantage of the leftovers of hard bread for its elaboration.

The sopeaos are thick variants of the gazpachos. I now remember my father, preparing what he called a "soup", which consisted of using gazpacho as a base, adding grapes, pieces of melon, pieces of bread, etc. and I was plunging it with a spoon.

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The recipe that I set out below is how for many years I saw her doing my grandmother of the white roete with glitter, my mother and my wife's auntie, dornillo caught between the legs and majada the components with the pestle of wood; but with the advances of small appliances have long put the ingredients in the turmix or the blender and then is passed by a Chinese to remove the skins and remains, then complete with water and chilling in the refrigerator for a few hours.

Dornillo: Container in the form of a bowl or bowl, made of white clay, unglazed. The same white mud were also and still are the jars (jars) that kept the water cool when there were no refrigerators or fridges.

Because of its porosity the water contained in the vase tends to come out through its open pores, which causes the entire surface to be moist. This moisture tends to evaporate by the action of heat and air. It is this evaporation that causes the container and its contents to have a reduction of heat and this is the reason why the water in the vats is always cool because it is very hot.

Ingredients:
• Crumbs of crusty bread for a couple of days, without crust
• 2 cloves of garlics, according to taste (the rule is one per diner)
• 1 green pepper
• 1/2 cucumber • • 4 or 5 regular but well-matured "mu coloraos" tomatoes (main ingredient)
• olive oil
• 1/2 glass wine vinegar
• fat salt < • cold water
• ice if desired • • onion (optional)
• a tip of ground pepper - sweet pepper - (optional to intensify red color)

b> Preparation:
Put the crumb of the bread in the soaking of water.

While the bread softens we make a dough on a dornillo, crushing the garlic with a little salt. Then add the washed, seeded and chopped pepper. Then the cucumber cut into slices and continue to munch. Then we add the washed tomatoes, chopped but not peeled or peeled.

Let's crush slowly in the clay dornillo and add the drained bread from the stew to which we had submitted. We continue pounding with the pestle all the ingredients as we add a generous stream of extra virgin olive oil and mix well so that it does not leave "spots", then we add the vinegar carefully (there are very different degrees of intensity), testing, because will give us the final point.

We add ice or put it in the refrigerator several hours before serving on the same dornillo.

Some people drink it in a tall glass, in a beer jug ​​or in a typical jarrillo (my case) before the dessert or who eats it as a starter with a spoon, accompanied with a garnish of tropezones of cucumber, onion, pepper, tomato, crust of hard bread, all very well minced, apart. In the latter case, each guest should serve the garnish to their liking on the gazpacho already in their individual dish or bowl.

  • Adam Floyd